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Video Time: 12 Minutes
In this video you will find the full tutorial and step by step instruction on making the hot process goat's milk soap with three colors and lemongrass fragrance.
Lemongrass & Goat's Milk Hot Process Soap
This recipe is made with plant based oils that are well balanced for a firm moisturizing bar. The oil selections are simple but combined in a specific way to maximize on the butters so that they magnify the creamy texture of the goat's milk. The result is a hot process bar that really feels like a luxury product and offers all the skin benefits from the lactic acid that goat's milk provides, both moisturizing and exfoliating.
This recipe will make 3 lbs. Of soap that can be cut into 11 pieces that will cure at 4.5 ounces a piece.
What you need:
- 18.24 oz. Distilled Water
- 6.56 oz. Lye (NaOH)
- 24 oz. Palm Oil
- 9.6 oz. Rice Bran Oil
- 7.2 oz. Olive Oil
- 5.76 oz Coconut Oil
- .5 oz. Cocoa Butter
- 1 oz. Shea Butter
- 2 scoops powdered Goat's Milk (see notes at end if you use whole goat's milk)
- 1.5 oz. Lemongrass Fragrance Oil
- 1 tsp. Titanium Dioxide
- ½ tsp. Yellow Mica
- ½ tsp. Green Mica
Instructions & Notes:
Add the Palm, Rice Bran, Olive, and Coconut Oils into the crock pot and turn the pot on high.
Make the lye water solution and add it when the lye is within 20 degrees of the oils that are warming in the pot. You may need to let the lye water cool for a few minutes, but don't forget that the oils in the crock pot are getting warmer, so this will happen more quickly than you might think.
Blend this down until it is completely emulsified. You can even cover the soap and let it cook through the first stage of hot process cooking. Once you check the soap the first time mix and oils and water that have separated back together. Add the shea butter and let it melt into the soap. Mix it thoroughly, then add the cocoa butter. Let this melt and mix it well. Cover the pot and allow it to cook into the second stage.
Check on this every 20 minutes until it has cooked into the third stage. This will become a gelled glassy texture. Mix it again folding the edges of the soap into the center and try to pull the bottom to the top. It is common for the soap to appear to be in the third stage while the bottom half isn't quite ready. Once you feel that the soap is cooked evenly remove the heat and cover.
Continue mixing so that the soap does not become stiff while it is cooling down. Mix two scoops of powdered goat's milk into 3 ounces of water. When the soap has cooled to under 150 degrees, pour the liquid into the crock pot and mix this well. The goat's milk needs to be completely incorporated, so give it a full two minutes of mixing. Make sure that you add the milk after the soap has significantly cooled so the milk doesn't scorch. If the milk burns the smell will carry past the fragrance oil and through the whole bar. After the milk s mixed into the soap, add the fragrance oil. Mix well.
Separate the soap into three bowls. Add each colorant into each bowl. The yellow and green mica can be added directly into the soap and mixed well. The titanium dioxide will give you the best result if it is dissolved in oil or water before adding it to the soap. (Read the package on your titanium dioxide to see if you will dissolve it in either oil or water.) Spoon the soap from each color into the mold layering in alternating colors.
Set this aside for 24 hours to set up, and cut. This soap can be used after 24 hours, but it is best used once it has cured 4 – 6 weeks.
Note on Goat's Milk : I write my recipes using powdered goat's milk knowing full well that most people don't have goats or access to fresh goat's milk. In my opinion, making soap with powdered goat's milk is much easier to incorporate into the recipe because adding it in at the end will ensure that the fatty globules and lactic acid will not get eaten up by the lye and there is a greater chance it will end up floating in the bar. It's also easier to control the risk of burnt milk. Some people do have goat's and would like to incorporate their own products into their hand made soap. In the recipe above 2 scoops of powdered goat's milk will make 1 cup of liquid. This means if you want to use liquid goat's milk into this recipe you will need 1 cup of liquid goat's milk.
You can do this in 2 ways. The first way is to remove 8 oz. of water from the water content when you make your lye water solution. Add 8 oz. of goat's milk to the water and freeze this into a slurry before you add the lye. When you add the lye crystals do it slowly and stir consistently. When you add the lye water to the oils in the crock pot cook everything on low. This will need more supervision and take longer in the crock pot. You may still run the risk of burning the milk through this process and it may take some practice until you get the hang of how your crock pot heats up.
Another way to do this, is to combine 10.24 oz. of water with the full amount of lye. This will get the lye to bond with the oils first, so that it won't do as much damage by eating up the milk as the lye and oils saponify. The soap may be thicker in the first stage, but if you keep it broken up with a spoon it will loosen up as it moves into the second and third stage. You can then add the 8 oz. of liquid goat's milk at the end of the process as the soap is cooling.
Note: This recipe is written with a 5% super fat. Make sure to add your richest butters at the end of the mixture so the remaining 5% left in the bar will be your best oil/butters. Goat's milk also contains fat and this fat is not written into the soap calculator, so you may get a result that is too moist or sticky. (This does not happen when I use powdered goat's milk, but can happen with different variations of fresh milk – depends on the milk) If you feel like this has happened in your soap reduce the shea butter by 0.5 ounce.